Cold, Miserable, but Lively: Cold Water Diving in the Pacific Northwest

The weather is dim, a bit chilly, with a tiny bit of rain. The water looks greenish-dark blue. Standing at the edge of the entry, I often have a déjà vu about why I’m gearing up to dive. Forget warm turquoise waters for a moment – I am now diving in the cold water in the Pacific Northwest.

Pacific Northwest (PNW) cold water diving primarily encompasses areas around Seattle (Puget Sound and Hood Canal) in the US, and around Vancouver and Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. While it’s certainly not the typical warm, vibrant coral reef many envision when thinking of scuba diving, the PNW is uniquely captivating due to its cold water and nutrient-rich environment. 

Everything, and I mean everything, is bigger here

from rockfish and lingcod to nudibranchs and anemones. Giant Pacific Octopuses (GPOs) and wolf eels are iconic creatures unique to this region. There’s a surprisingly abundant amount of life down below, and many sites are designated marine protected areas, making this truly my local underwater playground.

My “local dive” day typically stretches to 11 hours door-to-door for about 90 minutes of actual time in the water. Even the closest sites are at least 2.5 hours from where I live, and the water temperature limits how long I can stay on a single dive. And yet, I keep coming back. Despite the logistics, I’m genuinely happy that we pursued our drysuit training, enabling us to consistently explore this dramatically different cold water world.

Iconic Dive Sites: Where to Plunge In

There are numerous dive sites scattered throughout the Puget Sound and Hood Canal areas, with even more if you include the inland lakes. Most are accessible by shore, but some are only reachable by boat. I typically prefer shore diving due to flexibility and cost savings, although there are a few charter boats running day trips.

Here are a few sites I frequently dive, all offering relatively easy shore entries suitable for both fun dives and skill practice:

• Redondo Beach (Puget Sound): Parking is plentiful, making it a popular and easy choice. Two underwater guidelines (deep and shallow) offer variety. Six-gill shark sightings are frequent in summer, and I’ve seen seals here. This is a great spot to practice ascents and deco dive. You’ll regularly encounter crabs, rockfish, and tiny octopuses.

• Alki Seacrest Cove 2 (Puget Sound): Street parking is limited, so arrive early! This site is very popular for open water classes. Be mindful of the water taxi zone and inexperienced divers who can descend on top of you. I often see people diving sidemount and rebreathers here, presumably checking out gear for their future adventures. 
  The shallow area features a few horizontal bars, which I use for practicing cave lines, and some tree trunks, perfect for refining ascents and buoyancy when task loading. The Honey Bear wreck housed huge anemones, frequently accompanied by lingcod and rockfish.
• Sund Rock (Hood Canal): Reservations and payments are required here, but it’s worth it. It is famous for its wolf eels and Giant Pacific Octopuses. It’s typically not current-sensitive, and the site drops off quickly, making it suitable for practicing deep decompression dives.

Many of these shore-accessible dive sites are marine protected areas or within State Parks, meaning they are well-preserved and teeming with life that are used to divers. Consequently, I rarely see trash in the water, which is wonderful. Always observe the rules posted (accessible hours, dive flag requirements, etc.), and always leave no trace.

For detailed maps and additional information on these and other dive sites, check out the ‘PNW Dive Sites‘ Section on my blog and ‘Dive Site’ on Seattle Dive Tours

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The PNW Diving Experience: Challenges & Rewards

Diving in the Pacific Northwest presents a unique set of challenges and equally unique rewards that shape divers into skilled underwater explorers. I often wonder if I had started my diving as a cold water diver, would I keep diving given so many challenges? Glad I did, though. 

Challenges

• Cold Water: The water temperature ranges from 48-52°F (9-11°C), with Hood Canal often feeling even colder. While a thick 7mm wetsuit is the bare minimum, a drysuit is strongly recommended. I personally will only dive in a drysuit in these conditions. Because the exposure suit is so thick, you need significantly more weight to descend, and the suit itself (dry or wet) restricts body movements. I still remember the shock of my first cold water dive in a 7mm farmer john wetsuit – my face instantly seized up on the surface, making it difficult to breathe. Underwater, controlling buoyancy with all that extra weight felt like being a total beginner again, which is part of the fun.
• Visibility: A “best visibility” day here is often around 10+ meters, unlike the 30+ meter visibility typical in warm tropical waters. Visibility is best during winter and early spring. However, winter weather topside is often quite miserable with cold rain – it’s always a trade-off! Spring and summer (starting mid-May) see visibility deteriorate due to algal blooms. It is essential to use a powerful dive light, even during the day. Always stick close to your buddy.

• Currents & Tides: It is critical to check local tide, current, and surf tables and time your dives around slack current to minimize the impact of currents, especially at current-sensitive sites, and to ensure safety and better visibility. However, high slack time is also popular for boats, so divers need to be extra careful with surface traffic and tow a dive flag when needed.

>> Read more: NOAA website to check tides and currents

>> Read more: Plan Your Dive, my go-to website to find descriptions of PNW dive sites, along with tide and current predictions

• Entries: Shore entries can range from rocky beaches to sandy shores or even boat ramps. Long walks from parking lots to the entry point are common, so physical fitness and sturdy shoes are important. 

• Navigation: While local shore diving offers tremendous flexibility, navigating these sites for first-timers can feel daunting. I highly recommend hiring a dive guide or joining a local dive club’s organized dive when just starting. This is invaluable for learning site specifics and proper dive planning. Always read dive site maps, and a compass is necessary to aid navigation underwater.

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Rewards

• Unique Marine Life: Being a cold water environment, the PNW offers dramatically different creatures compared to tropical corals. Giant Pacific Octopuses, wolf eels, various lingcod, and rockfish are all local favorites. You’ll also encounter fascinating crabs and shrimps, along with countless hidden macro opportunities and surprisingly large, colorful nudibranchs.

• Skill Building: The challenges of cold water diving (heavy weighting for buoyancy, reduced mobility, low visibility) actively develop divers into more competent and versatile underwater explorers. When I’m on a dive vacation with just a single tank and wetsuit now, it feels so free and easy! Getting comfortable in low visibility also significantly helps in dealing with various unexpected situations underwater. It truly expands your comfort zone
• Time in Water: Let’s be honest: divers want to be in the water! Not all of us live in tropical dive destinations. Access to local dives helps keep skills and mindset fresh, allows for consistent practice, and fosters a wonderful local diving community.

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Practical Information

Planning a PNW dive trip requires some specific considerations. Here’s what you need to know:

Essential Gear Considerations

• Drysuit: This is an absolute must-have for comfort and safety in cold water. Ensure you have proper drysuit training and certification.
• Undergarments: Layering is key! Invest in good-quality thermal undergarments designed for drysuit diving. Merino wool baselayer provides warmth and does not feel cold when getting wet. Make sure to leave an allowance for layers when purchasing a drysuit.
• Gloves & Hoods: Thick and fitted options are vital to prevent heat loss from your extremities and head. I love dry gloves because it reduce bulk from the neoprene and give me a bit more flexibility than wet gloves.
• Lights: A powerful primary dive light (and a reliable backup light) are essential. Even on “bright” days, they cut through the gloom and reveal colors. Sometimes the algae form a thick layer on the surface, making the underwater look like a night dive.
• Cold Water Regulators: Use regulators rated for cold water to prevent free-flow issues
• SMB & Reels & Dive Flag setup: since we share the environment with boats, these safety devices ensure divers’ safety.
• Weighting: Expect to carry significantly more weight than you would in warm water or a wetsuit, due to the buoyancy of the drysuit and undergarments.

Local Resources & Community

• Dive Shops: Local dive shops are invaluable resources. They can provide a wealth of information regarding dive sites, best practices for the area, support for gas fills, tank and gear rentals, and arrange boat dive seats or guided shore or boat dives.
• Local Dive Clubs/Groups: Joining a local dive club is a great way to find buddies and discover new sites. Some groups run organically; some are sponsored by dive shops. They are fantastic for finding dive buddies, discovering new sites, and getting real-time updates on conditions. 
• Marine Forecasts & Tide Tables: Emphasize checking these before every dive. Work the timing into your dive plan. Sometimes, even after driving all the way (e.g., 3 hours one-way), we decide not to dive due to concerns about waves or wind.

>> Read more: Marker Buoy Dive Club (in Seattle Area) or Oregon Scuba Club are both good places to build local communities
>> Read more: pnwdiving.com is a great website to find recent dive reports

More information regarding local dive shops and day boats can be found in the ‘PNW Diving Resources‘ section.

Safety Tips

• Stick to the buddy system and carry a Nautilus GPS in case of emergencies.
• Familiarize yourself with local emergency procedures and dive site regulations.
• Use dive flags where required and be aware of local boating activity.

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Embrace the Chill, Discover the Wonders

Diving in the Pacific Northwest is an experience unlike any other. It challenges you, builds your skills, and rewards you with incredible encounters with unique marine life in a stunning underwater landscape. It might be cold, and sometimes a bit miserable topside, but the lively world beneath the surface is always worth it.

So, if you’re looking to dive deeper into your skills and travel further into a unique diving experience, consider exploring the underwater wonders of the Pacific Northwest.

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Let’s Explore Together!

What are your favorite PNW dive spots? Share your most memorable cold water dive in the comments below! Thank you for stopping by Two Ocean Notes. Happy diving, and I look forward to sharing more with you soon!

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1. Image from USGS website ↩︎
2. Image from Seattle Times “What you need to know to start scuba diving in the Seattle area”, published 2022 March 15—photo by Annie Crawley Photography. ↩︎

Editorial disclaimer

Please be aware that scuba diving is an inherently risky activity, even with certification and experience. The content on this blog reflects my personal opinions and experiences and should not be considered instructional. Always prioritize safety, seek guidance and certification from qualified diving professionals, and carefully consider the risks involved in any dives.